This is how you test your digital back to see if it works without having the proper camera it is designed for.
Shooting tethered to an iBook G3, the camera is a Kodak No. 1A Pocket Kodak, Seires II. The Diomatic No.0 shutter allowed me to time an exposure using the T mode (one click to open the shutter, one lick to close the shutter).
The trick is to use a regular shutter in the following way: one shutter release to wake up the sleepy digital back. Within 5 seconds, you must make the second release to take the photo. Release the Kodak shutter, hold shutter relase on the back, close the Kodak shutter, then release your hold on the back's shutter release. Then it's all trial and error to figure out how much time you need to expose to get a picture based on your lighting and ISO sensitivity.
Credit goes to Drew from the PhaseOne/Mamiya forum crew who told me what I should do to get the exposure right on this back.
This is the first working image I got out of it. The green tint is because there was still light leak on the sides of the digital back. The Kodak's original frame size is about 6x12cm, which is huge and is wider than the entire block of the digital back.
This was exported via Adobe Lightroom from the RAW .TIF file. Adobe Lightroom could only export the small preview file. Only Capture One DB will be able to process the RAW into a full size JPG, apparently.
Here are a couple more pictures. Sorry it's all mobile phone pics.
Edit: sorry if this post was offline for a few days. My Android Blogger App reverted this post to an old draft, actually deleting the text and file. I have since had to re-write and reported the issue to Google, even though I doubt they will do anything about it soon, so if you use a smartphone and your computer to blog, I think write and publish your post within one machine instead of drafting on one and finishing and publishing on the other like I do.
Shooting tethered to an iBook G3, the camera is a Kodak No. 1A Pocket Kodak, Seires II. The Diomatic No.0 shutter allowed me to time an exposure using the T mode (one click to open the shutter, one lick to close the shutter).
The trick is to use a regular shutter in the following way: one shutter release to wake up the sleepy digital back. Within 5 seconds, you must make the second release to take the photo. Release the Kodak shutter, hold shutter relase on the back, close the Kodak shutter, then release your hold on the back's shutter release. Then it's all trial and error to figure out how much time you need to expose to get a picture based on your lighting and ISO sensitivity.
Credit goes to Drew from the PhaseOne/Mamiya forum crew who told me what I should do to get the exposure right on this back.
This is the first working image I got out of it. The green tint is because there was still light leak on the sides of the digital back. The Kodak's original frame size is about 6x12cm, which is huge and is wider than the entire block of the digital back.
This was exported via Adobe Lightroom from the RAW .TIF file. Adobe Lightroom could only export the small preview file. Only Capture One DB will be able to process the RAW into a full size JPG, apparently.
Here are a couple more pictures. Sorry it's all mobile phone pics.
Edit: sorry if this post was offline for a few days. My Android Blogger App reverted this post to an old draft, actually deleting the text and file. I have since had to re-write and reported the issue to Google, even though I doubt they will do anything about it soon, so if you use a smartphone and your computer to blog, I think write and publish your post within one machine instead of drafting on one and finishing and publishing on the other like I do.
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